Reflections

My six days on the road with a bicycle were a great experience. I met some wonderful people, saw many interesting sights, and found my way in a foriegn country.

It was different than previous bicycle touring experiences in that I was touring alone. There is something energizing about that. There are no schedules except what you want to set. Also, your interaction with people along the way is welcomed. When you get lost or are not sure of the route, it is an opportunity to interact with helpful people. I had many positive contacts with the Dutch people this way, and fortunately most speak English. Since my return I have received several email queries about the remainder of my trip from one of the families that hosted me. I communicated to him that he and his wife were welcomed at my house if they come to the US.

Holland is a place that I would like to come back to.

June 12

This morning at 9:00 AM, as I left the small town of Edam the church bells were ringing. A short while later, riding through the town of Volendam the church bells began to ring. Still later as I pedaled through the small town of Monickandam the bells began to ring.

It seemed to me that the church bells were wishing me farewell on the last day of my tour. It is interesting how the church bells on this Sunday morning stimulated my thoughts and feelings. I sensed that God was with me and also sensed that I would return to more touring by bicycle in Holland.

I also had a line from a Johnny Cash song running through my mind as I rode. “Six days on the road and I’m gonna make it home tonight”. I had been thinking of my family, with special thoughts for my son Matt who was recovering from a bad bicycle accident. I was eager to see him to be reassured of his recovery progress.

At about 20 kilometers I came to a Cafe/Art studio. It looked like a good stop for a cup of coffee and a cake. It was a picturesque setting next to footbridge over a canal that I would be crossing on my way to Amsterdam. I ordered a cup of coffee and a piece of lemon cake which I enjoyed at a street side table. While paying I met the owners. They asked about my travels and shared their plan to travel to the US west coast in October to visit the national parks.

As I departed the coffee shop I sensed that the scenery was about to change from rural to urban as I approached Amsterdam. I was encountering more highways, more auto traffic and more people. The rest of the trip was uneventful. I found my way along the last kilometers to the ferry which I took across the IJ River to central station. From their I navigated my way through the busy streets to Daam square where I returned the bike to the rental shop. I spent several hours walking around Amsterdam before catching a train to the airport where I got a hamburger at Burger King before taking an airport shuttle van to the hotel where I would stay tonight before returning home the next day.

June 11

This morning when I came to breakfast I initiated conversation with my hosts, William and Alf. I found that they had lived at this house for 35 years. William had worked in shipping and traveled all over the world. He was 80 years old and retired. He was quite good with English, and both he and his wife proudly stated that they had no formal English language training. He also knew German and one other language.

My route today would take me to my last overnight before returning to Amsterdam. I did not call ahead to reserve a room for tonight as I usually did. I decided that I would go to the destination town, Edam and inquire about a room at the Tourist Information center. I was a little nervous about this plan but there were no listings in my Bicycle travel club book for Edam.

The distance was less than previous days, a little over 30 miles. Today I encountered threatening weather, and found shelter in a bicycle shop after seeing a bolt of lightening in my direction of travel. After waiting for 30 minutes or so I proceeded on through the town of Hoorn. Some how, I got off of my route and ended up in the middle of this good sized town. After asking directions I found myself in the middle of a street market with many booths selling baked goods, cheeses, and many other products. It was 1:00 PM and I had not had a break for lunch. I desperately wanted a good cup of coffee and some sweet. I bought two crumb cake type pastries and found a cup of coffee to go with it. It renewed my energy, and I quickly pressed on toward my destination. I wasn’t sure how late the tourist information center would be opened since it was Saturday and I wanted to be sure to get a room for the night.

The wind had been strong from the South, and of course I was going mostly South. As I got about 10 kilometers from Edam dark threatening clouds formed in the direction I was headed. A few rain drops began to fall. I stopped and put rain jacket and pants back on and continued to press into the wind and threatening conditions. I finally arrived at the TI in Edam during light rain and I was happy to see the door opened. I quickly went in to inquire about a room. In a few minutes I was set with a room at a B&B.

After checking in to my room and getting cleaned up, I explored the small town of Edam taking many photos and scoping out the food options. I settled on Chinese and had a filling meal of hot and sour soup and curry chicken. I rested well on this last night of my tour.

June 10

When I came down for breakfast I was greeted with a tableful of food. I asked if they were going to join me, but they had already eaten. Sipke was tending his garden and Marja was preparing an egg omelet to add to the choices. She prepared what she called a typical Dutch breakfast food. It was a small crusty bread with strawberries that she sliced and placed on top, and sprinkled sugar on the berries. It was very delicious. I packed a lunch which included yogurt, sandwich with meat and cheese, raisin roll, and raisin cake. Sounds like a lot and it would be needed since this would be a longer day.

Today I will ride from Anna Paulowna North East to the town of Den Oer, and then south down the eastern coast to Enkhuizen. Before departing I took photos of my hosts. They were wonderful , welcoming, and interested in my trip. They offered suggestions on my route.

I departed at about 9:00 AM and had gone maybe 10 or 11 kilometers only missing one turn which required some backtracking. I stopped at an intersection to check a route sign and verify my direction of travel. At the same time I heard voices and looked back in direction I had come and saw two bicyclists coming on fast road bikes. To my surprise it was Sipke and Marja. They road with me a short ways and said they were making a quick trip to Den Oever and back before she had to go to work. Off they went, no way that I could keep up with the loaded hybrid bike I was riding.

I rode on through a small attractive town Den Hauke and some how missed my turn. No problem I took some photos and found my way back on the route. As I neared Den Oever I came to an underpass of a highway that I was supposed to take and almost missed. I made a sudden left turn to get to the underpass and stopped to verify my route. A Dutch gentleman who had been riding some distance behind me saw my indecision and stopped to talk. Hr started talking to me in Dutch, so I asked if he spoke English, which he did a little. He confirmed my route and learning that I was from the US wanted to hear about my trip. The Dutch people are so friendly and helpful!

Den Oever is a town at the North East tip of Northern Holland. From this town they constructed a dike that is about 15 kilometers long and connects with Friesland. The dike was built in the 1930’s to protect Holland from being overrun by floods when the Northeast winds blew.

My ride South from Den Oever was long and not so interesting as it covered many kilometers of farm land, with modern windmills arranged along the coast. When I arrived at the first town of Medemblik, I stopped and had lunch on a bench in the town center.

After lunch I continued on down the coastline of the IJssselmeer another 20 miles to Enkhuizen where I began my search for the tourist information center. The signs giving directions to the TI were misleading so I asked a man I saw and he directed me. I found the TI at about 3:00 PM and got directions to my accommodations for the night, checked in, got a shower, and a short rest before going back into town to find my dinner. I found a hamburger at a small bar along the water front. I also met two interesting men and heard their story about preparing a sailboat to sail to France. It seems I was an interesting novelty to some the Dutch people I met. Often when they learned that I was from the US, they wanted to know what brought me to their country. This always resulted in a good conversation.

June 9 (email to Fam)

Last Evening (June 8)

After some challenge I found the address of my hosts in Bergon. The TI gave me directions, but they were not accurate. I consulted with Lady I saw walking, then called the host and let him talk to her. He told her where he lived and she then directed me. When I got close | saw a man waiting for me in the street.

They were a wonderful welcoming couple, William (pronounced Vilm), and Gerta. After meeting and getting acquainted, Vilm showed me to my room. There was a welcome note and a chocolate on the pillow. After showering and shaving I returned to the living area. Gerta had gone to meet a friend, Vilm offered me a glass of wine, so we sat at the table and got to know each other.

Vilm recommended a restaurant for my supper, gave me a key to the house, and gave me directions. He informed me that he and his wife were meeting friends to see the movie "127 days" and would not be in until late. I went to town for supper and had a good fish and chips meal. When I returned there was a note on the dining table wishing me a good nights rest, accompanied with a beer and a mug!

I watched TV with their cat which adopted my lap for a quick nap. I went to my room about 11:00 PM and quickly fell into a restful sleep.

Today (June 9)

I was up by 7 and down for breakfast at 8 AM, they asked if they could join me for breakfast, and I was happy for share breakfast around the table with them. He indicated that we would have a short prayer. I felt right at home. On departure they packed me a lunch including two bananas, yogurt two sandwiches, and one of their personal spoons. What wonderful hosts. After photos with each of them I departed about 9:00 AM

Scenery – North Sea Ocean, dunes, dike

Found my way with fewer backtracks today, basically follow the Holland coast along the North sea for 50 kilometers. Nice day blue skies, strong wind from South West, I was going North, get the picture? I made good time. Stopped often to verify route and enjoy the scenery. After Making my initial destination Den Helder, I continued South East to the town of Anna Paulowna. After much searching for the TI getting directions and arriving at the House I logged a total of 77 kilometers.

I Met the hosts Sipke, and Marja Koopmans a very nice couple in their sixties. After hearing about my trip and getting acquainted, they helped me call and arrange for accommodations at my next destination. They recommended a place for my super and I was off to fill the tummy. I had a Greek Pork gyro, followed by a stop for a soft serve ice cream. When I returned to the house Sipke offers his computer for email. I quickly accepted his offer.

Oh, I almost for got to mention that at Den Helder I found the TI and went in to ask directions for my way to Anna Paulowna. The very beautiful Alexia was very helpful, inquiring about my trip and recommending a change from my planned route. I will take her recommendation to follow a more interesting route. When I arrived at Anna Paulowna and finally found the TI, A very nice young lady, Wendy helped direct me to the address. She informed me that she knew the people at the address and that they were very nice. Comforting words when you are not sure what the people or accommodation will be like. Wendy also wanted to hear about my trip.

The accommodation here is very nice and comfortable. They served me tea and wanted to talk and talk. They let me know that they like Americans.

Breakfast at 8:00 Am and then off by about 9 to my next destination Enkhuizen South East and on the Eastern coast.

Love to the Fam, all is well!

June 8 (email to Fam)

Last evening (June 7)

I checked in at my reservation last evening at 5:00 PM, got a key then returned to the harbor to find some food. I was quite hungry. Fish and chips, two Amstels, and an ice cream cone later I felt better. It was nice eating on the water front watching the tourist scurry about. Also, very cute boy sitting next to an Interesting statue on a bench.

Got back to my overnight, showered and studied the route for the next day, watched some TV, and went to bed.

Today (June 8)

I had a good rest last night. When I waked I saw that it rained overnight and was cool and threatening rain. I dressed for it.

I departed Volendam this morning at about 8:30. I had more trouble finding my way out of the small town of Edam than Amsterdam. Some of my route directions were out of synch with the actual signs. I arrived at the town of Alkmaar at about 1:00 PM. I checked in at the TI and got directions for the library for internet access, then I found a place to have lunch at the town square. I have pedaled 45 Kilometers, and will continue on another 5 - 10 for my planned overnight in Bergon.

The scenery today has been mostly open farms with small villages and many windmills along the way. I stopped in a small village at 10:00 AM and got an applebak and Koffe.

The day has been cloudy cool, and a pretty good wind out of the West. Of course, I'm headed West! The good news is no rain.

I've learned to use the KP

(Knooppunt) network of route intersections to find my way. When things don't make sense in my route sheet, I head for the KP number that makes sense and usually end up where I'm supposed to. I have done some backtracking and redirecting, but that’s part of the challenge. The important thing is that I am getting to my destinations.

I am scheduled to check in at my accommodation between 4 and 5 this afternoon.

That's all for now.

June 7 (email to Fam)

We had breakfast together at 8:30 this morning in our hotel in Amsterdam. After hugs kisses and well wishes, Pat, Denny and Wendy left via cab for the airport at 9:15.

I had mixed feelings seeing them go. Here I am, by myself, ready to embark on the next leg of a Holland adventure. Can I do this? Sure I can!!!

Back up to the room to apply sunscreen, grab my bags and depart at 9:30. I walked to the bike shop where I had rented a bike, arrived at about 10:00.

Got the bike, Filled out paper work, got instructions, tested the bike, loaded the possessions that I had laid out the night before in the panniers. All fit! Attached my GPS mount, and my route sheets clipped to the cables and got instructions on how to get to the ferry. I'm off!

I had studied my route from the "Touring Holland By Bike" book I purchased some time ago. When trying to synchronize the route leaving Amsterdam with the maps I had purchased it was sketchy. I wasn't sure about it.

Caught the ferry @ 11:15 AM to cross the IJ, and activated the GPS to start the trip. No problem finding my way out of Amsterdam. I pedaled my way along the water front and through the first town of Durgerdam. My route took me on a nice water front trail on a dike. Before reaching Marken the next town I stopped @ 12:30 PM for lunch at a picnic table on the water front. Ate the sandwich that I made at breakfast (cheese two different kinds of meat between two dark all grain slices of bread. Also, three small candy bars and water. It is a beautiful day, partly sunny, light breeze and maybe 70 degrees.

After lunch I proceeded on to Marken where I caught another ferry to Vollendam. This is where I will stay for the night. I stopped at the TI to get directions to the address where I will stay, and inquire about Internet access. Found the house (more of an apartment building), and then went to the library to send my first report.

I will stop at the house at 5:00 PM to check in and will unload my panniers, and head back to town to get supper. I saw a fish and chips place that looks inviting.

This was a very relaxed day of only 25 kilometers. It feels good to have made my first destination of this six day trip.

All's well!

Bike and Barge (email to Family, June 4)

Dear Fam,

We finished our Bike tour this evening. We will spend tonight on the barge, and then after breakfast we are on our own.

It was loads of fun, many memerorable sights, decent weather(no serious rain) many new friends (our barge mates), a couple of sore butt days, but no injuries. Pat struggled with congestion, took a day off the bike to rest, but was a trooper with a couple of windy days. Today Denny and Wendy had a flat tire of their tandem about 7 or 8 kilometers before the finish. The guide really didn't know how to change a tire, and the rest of the group was eager to get back to the boat, so Denny Wendy, Wade and I stayed and started to work on it with the minimal tools and supplies he had while he took the rest of the group back to the boat. He said he would be back 30 minutes. The tube he had was the wrong size, so we found patches in the kit and patched the tube. Then we found a tear in the tire so we patched that too. Amazingly we got it back together and everything worked. It had an internal gear system which we had to partially disassemble just to get the wheel off. Anyway we got it fixed and he still hadn't returned, so we decided to try to find our way. I flagged down a gentleman on a bike and asked if he could help us. After describing our destination he readily agreed to guide us, so off we went and with his help found our way back. Mean time the guide had gone back after us and took a different route so missed us, oh well alls well that ends well!

Weather was mostly cool, often windy, and some overcast with drizzle, but we had several blue sky days. It reminded me of March or April in VA.

Historic churches, castles, beautiful pastoral farm sights, many ferry rides, and more than half of the riding on separate bike ways. The pace was about 9 or 10 kph, the bikes were relatively heavy hybrid style bike that once you got them going seemed to be easier than light weight bike to maintain forward motion. We usually departed about 9:00 AM, and finished the day by 3:00 to 4:00 PM. But there were many stops to let people group up(sometimes the group would get separated by pace, intersection stop light, etc) hear history, have coffee, lunch. The guide was a Dutch man that really made it interesting.

Anyway, we'll have pictures and much more to tell when we return.

What's next: Well we will have Saturday, Sunday, and Monday together before all but me will return. I must say I have mixed feeling about staying here, especially in light of Matt's accident. I have mulled over the possibility of changing my ticket to return early but think I will proceed with my plan, especially now that I have a phone and can keep in frequent contact.

Hallo from Pat,

Some of my perspectives: I made it, and feel like I accomplished a huge endeavor. I was not always enjoying it, especially the wind factor.....we all understand the windmills now. I also got a bit asthmatic and breathing was not necessarily easy so I took two of the days off. Anyway, now that it is behind me I can honestly say it was wonderful. Great people, scenery, and history. I had no idea how very many canals in Holland......everywhere and we rode along them all day; thru farmlands, towns, cities. Jan our guide was great also. We sang, danced and teased a lot. First thing one morning Eunice, Jan and I were singing ""oh what a beautiful morning"" as we were riding thru a town and Wade ran into my back tire and took a fall. So much for the singing! We would comment on what a beautiful day and Jan would comment "do not sell your fur before you kill the bear" and Jay told him our saying is "don’t count your chickens before they are hatched". Anyway we exchanged many cultural euphemisms and other bantering. Enough for now.

See you soon and hope all is well

Hugs

dad and mom

Holland Bicycle tour 2011

Since my Cross Country bicycle tour in 2008 I have wanted to do another tour. Europe was an attractive idea because of it’s bicycle friendly culture. I was drawn to Holland since two of my cross country bicycle tour friends were from Holland. I had hoped to meet with them but because of a previously scheduled tour in Italy, they were not available.

I suggested the idea of a bike and barge tour to my wife, and my brother and his wife and got the interest and go ahead signal. I started researching options and found a “Southern Holland Relax tour” by Cycle tours that sounded interesting. The ride distances ranged from 20miles to near 30. There was the option to stay on the barge if you preferred to take a day off. That sounded good to Pat and Wendy. My cousin from Indiana and his wife also joined us. The June 4 email in the next post summarizes our trip.

Following the bike and barge tour after three days with my wife and brother and his wife in Amsterdam, I stayed an additional week for a self directed tour of Northern Holland. I document my experience in a series of daily accounts.

In preparing for this self directed tour I purchased a book on touring Holland By Bicycle. The book was very helpful in providing information on suggested routes. I also joined a bicycle touring club "Vrienden Op de Fiets", means friends of bicyclist. With this membership I recieved a membership card and a catalog listing of contact information and addresses for Dutch residents that provided bed and breakfast accommodation for bicyclist. I used this resource on my tour to reserve a place to stay overnight, usually calling ahead each night for the next night.